While many first-time backpackers in Europe overlook the Balkans, the region is getting slightly more popular with more adventurous travellers. That being said, aside from one or two coastal regions in Croatia, it largely remains something of a hidden gem and well off the traditional European travel map. In this post, we’ll outline an extensive Balkans backpacking route with individual itineraries for Croatia, Serbia, Kosovo, Albania, North Macedonia and Montenegro that link up to form one huge loop around the region.
Backpacking in the Balkans – Route Info
TIME NEEDED – 7 weeks to 2 Months
This is a rough guide and it depends a bit on the season and obviously your personal travel preferences. In the summer you may wish to spend more time in coastal places like Budva, Sarandë and the Croatian islands and 2 months plus might be a good idea. At other times of the year you could probably skip some of them altogether and get it down to 6 weeks.
There are a lot of small towns that can be seen easily in a day and the distances between them aren’t massive so there will be few if any times where you spend most of the day travelling from A to B. Therefore don’t be put off by the number of stops on our route. By allowing 2 months, you are averaging just over 2 days in each destination, which is plenty. If you are restricted by a limited period of time to travel, you can easily just pick and choose part of the route.
POSSIBLE BUDGET – £1350-1800 | €1500-2000 | US$1800-2400
The Balkans is one of the cheapest parts of Europe overall. Croatia is the most expensive country with costs not far off what you find in Western Europe these days, particularly during the tourist season. Elsewhere you can get extremely good value for money and the equivalent of roughly 25 Euros/day should be sufficient for a genuine shoestring traveller. Stretching to around 35 Euros/day will allow you to travel in much more comfort.
Note that these figures and exchange rates were last updated in January 2021. Note that of the six countries featured on this Balkans itinerary, only Kosovo and Montenegro use the Euro with the other four countries having their own currencies.
More on the cost of travel in Europe including individual country budgets.
TRAVEL INSURANCE FOR BACKPACKERS IN THE BALKANS
The cost of travel insurance isn’t included in the budget figures above. If you require travel insurance for backpacking the Balkans, check out SafetyWing’s travel medical insurance which starts at just $42 per 4 week period for 18-39 year olds (it’s more if you’re 40+) covering all of Europe.
Note that this price level does not cover some “high risk” adventure activities. If you think you may require more extensive coverage, this rundown of the best travel insurance for backpackers may help.
A 2 Month Itinerary for Backpacking the Balkans
To some, the mere mention of the word ‘Balkans’ immediately evokes the image of war and while the scars of the 1990’s conflicts which saw Yugoslavia divided up into several smaller states remain, things have changed massively in this region since.
Croatia has the most developed travel industry in the region and is also one of the world’s top remote work destinations. It’s where our Balkans backpacking route starts but once you leave charming Dubrovnik behind and head to Montenegro, slowly but surely you steer away from the crowds and find yourself on a real adventure in a beautiful and very budget-friendly part of the world. Our route then takes in Kosovo and Albania, which have a very different feel to the other countries before moving onto Macedonia and Serbia, finishing off in the lively cities of Belgrade and Novi Sad.
Croatia Travel Itinerary
Time Needed – 10 days to 2 weeks
Zagreb is Croatia’s capital and largest city and a good place to start off. It’s not as big a travel destination as some of the coastal towns but is a lively place with plenty going for it. It boasts a medieval old town while the newer parts are reminiscent of many of the central European capitals so it doesn’t have such a strong Balkans vibe but there’s enough to keep you occupied for a day or two.
2. Plitvice National Park
The Plitvice national park is one of the most beautiful natural areas in the Balkans and indeed all of Europe. It is like a natural water-world with large waterfalls and 16 interlinked turquoise lakes surrounded by lush forests. You do need a permit to enter the park though which costs between 80 and 300 HRK (11-40 Euros) depending on the time of year you visit with summer most expensive.
In terms of accommodation, some local apartment owners rent out rooms for as cheap as 10 Euros/night while there is also a camping site with some bungalows and tents for rent in the nearby town of Korana.
Zadar is an important historical city on the coast. It has a small old town which is easily explored on foot while there are plenty of beaches nearby to relax on. In the summer it gets busy and some of the beaches are big nightlife destinations so its many hostels fill up and there is a big party vibe during the middle of the year. It’s still worth a visit during the winter although perhaps only for a day or two.
4. Split & Croatian Islands
The ancient port city of Split is another essential stop on any backpacking route for Croatia. The town itself has Roman walls, squares, and temples and will occupy you for a day or so. You can also kick back on Bačvice beach, which has lots of bars and clubs that come alive at night.
Split is also the best place to get to some of the most popular Croatian islands such as Hvar and Brač while there are day trips you can do on the mainland too so it’s easy to spend several days in this part of Croatia, particularly during the summer months.
Dubrovnik is perhaps the most beautiful of all the Croatian towns with stunning bays and clear water as well as a most impressive old city which is circled by large medieval walls on all sides. These can be climbed and walked along. It gets very busy though with numerous cruise ships coming in every day. Tourist numbers and prices are high as a result but it’s certainly somewhere not to be missed.
Possible Extension – Bosnia-Herzegovina
To get from Split to Dubrovnik, you have to briefly pass through Bosnia-Herzegovina so technically you will visit it anyway. However if you want to really spend some time there consider heading to Mostar, which is easily accessible from either Split or Dubrovnik and potentially on to the capital Sarajevo.
If you do that you could rejoin the route at Durmitor National Park to avoid going back on yourself although it would be a shame to miss the Bay of Kotor, which is one of the real highlights of this Balkans travel itinerary. If you end up in Sarajevo, check out the War Hostel, which lets you experience a night or two in a city under siege (which Sarajevo was during the Bosnian conflict for almost four years) complete with bomb sounds!
Montenegro Travel Itinerary
Time Needed – 10 days
Certainly one of the highlights of the trip and the jewel in Montenegro’s crown. The ancient walled city of Kotor is a nice place to spend a day and an evening but you’ll need another day or two to explore the stunning bay which is dotted around with friendly little villages. You could opt to spend one night staying in the town and then perhaps another couple somewhere further along the bay where you can really appreciate its beauty. A must for any extensive Balkans travel route.
Read more – 5 European cities that are older than Rome
If you’re travelling in one of the cooler months you can skip Budva but in the summer it comes alive as one of the most raucous party-towns in the Balkans. The beaches are nothing to get carried away about in truth and there are more chilled out places further down the coast towards Albania. However Budva is Montenegro’s shameless party capital and attracts visitors from around the region so it’s a good place to let your hair down.
8. Durmitor National Park
This mountainous area is another major stop on any Montenegro backpacking route and nature lovers won’t want to miss it. Hiking is a popular activity while it contains the deepest canyon in all of Europe, which is great for rafting.
9. Biogradska Gora National Park
This is the smallest of Montenegro’s four national parks but arguably the most beautiful and is hugely diverse. It contains one of only 3 remaining rainforests in Europe as well as mountain ridges and glacial lakes.
Kosovo Travel Itinerary
Time Needed – 1 week
For a small city, there is quite a lot to see and do in and around Peja, which is of Ottoman and Serbian Orthodox heritage. The monastery known as the Patriarchate of Peć is its most famous site and there’s also a lot of natural beauty around with caves, waterfalls and natural springs in the surrounding countryside. Hiking, rock-climbing, caving and skiing are popular activities and at bargain prices compared to other parts of Europe.
For those of you interested in the complex politics and ethnic divisions in the Balkans and particularly Kosovo, Mitrovica is one place you definitely should visit. It perhaps sums up the Kosovan conflict better than any other city as the town is divided between Serbs, who mostly live north of the river and Albanians, who live in the south. There’s not a great deal to see in truth but it’s just an interesting place to spend a day in. Be wary of the current political climate though as trouble does sometimes flare up given the divided nature of the city.
The capital of Kosovo, Europe’s newest and poorest state, is changing at quite a rate. It’s small enough that you can visit everywhere that’s really worth seeing in a day. It has some unusual sights such as a curiously shaped library and a statue of Bill Clinton, which is not far from the bus station, and a few new or renovated museums.
There are certainly more beautiful cities in the Balkans but Pristina is not without its charms and English is widely spoken which makes it easier to get a feel for the place. People in Kosovo are generally more welcoming to foreigners than in other parts of the former Yugoslavia.
Prizren is much more attractive than Pristina and a must-visit for anyone backpacking in Kosovo. It is much smaller though and it’d be hard to justify much more than a day here. The main thing to do is walk up to the crumbling fortress which towers over the town and provides a stunning view of Prizren, its charming riverside centre and the dozens of mosques, which really give it a unique identity and feel.
Read more: 5 Cool Things about Travel in Kosovo
Albania Travel Itinerary
Time Needed – 1 week to 10 days
You’re now outside of what was Yugoslavia for the first time and Tirana is the best place to learn about Albanian culture and history. There are lots of interesting museums and sights but most are in or near to the giant Skanderbeg Square, which is the best location to base yourself. You could easily spend several hours in the extensive National Historic Museum, which offers a real insight into a country that has gone through some really dark times.
For more insight into Tirana – Check out this guest post on Europe’s least visited capital!
Albania is a really quirky country in many ways and decades of isolation have given it a unique feel that is distinct from even its neighbouring countries. Berat is a good example of that and it is known as the ‘town of a thousand windows’. It’s certainly one of the most beautiful in Albania but you’ll only really need an afternoon to see the town itself. A day trip out to Corovode and the Osumi Gorge is well worth doing though.
This is another historic Ottoman city and one of the three UNESCO World Heritage sites in the country along with Berat and the Butrint National Park, which form some of the main stops for anyone backpacking in Albania. It’s known as the city of stone with an expertly preserved old town and impressive castle. There is also the old bazaar which still acts as the social and commercial hub of the town.
Albania’s best coastal destination is a great place to hang around in the summer. It has a few lively hostels and a bit of a backpacker vibe with the Mediterranean climate, sandy beaches and warm waters the main draw not to mention prices that are far lower than you get almost anywhere else in the Med. The best beaches are further along the coast but this is the most logical place to base yourself and it’s even possible to hop across the water on a ferry to the Greek island of Corfu which takes only about 2 hours.
Possible Extension – Greece
Sarandë is very close to the Greek border & the island of Corfu so it’s easy to visit Greece from here. The trip from Sarandë to Ohrid is a long one too so it could even be quicker to dip into Greece and head to Macedonia that way as the roads are better south of the border. The lakeside Greek town of Ioannina would be a possible stop.
Read about the cost of travel in Greece or check out our 4 week Greece backpacking route which features the best of Athens and around and some of the main islands.
North Macedonia Travel Itinerary
Time Needed – 1 week
Ohrid is the real travel highlight of Macedonia and a worthy stop for anyone backpacking in the Balkans. The town looks out onto the giant lake of the same name and it’s a place of both historical significance and natural beauty. It is supposedly one of the oldest human settlements in all of Europe and you can certainly spend a few days here exploring the town and surrounding area.
Bitola is Macedonia’s Second City but it only has a population of just under 100,000 so it’s not an enormous place. It’s known for its European vibe with colourful streets and monuments, as well as the most beautiful old bazaar in Macedonia. It’s also famed for its lively nightlife and is a good place to party and meet some locals.
Skopje is a real surprise and in parts it feels more like London or Paris than a formerly provincial city nestled deep in the Balkans. Like London, it has a river that runs right through its heart with several stylish bridges that connect the two sides of the city. It boasts an enormous number of statues and monuments and the Macedonian capital seems to be on an all-out mission to have the largest statues in the world.
The one presumed to be of Alexander the Great in the central Macedonia Square is quite a sight and towers over the others. There is really quite a lot to see and do in Skopje, which is one of the biggest cities on this Balkans backpacking route so at least 2 days and perhaps more are needed.
Macedonia is also quite well located for crossing over into Bulgaria and following our 5 week backpacking route for Hungary, Romania and Bulgaria.
Serbia Travel Itinerary
Time Needed – 10 days
Serbia is now a landlocked country following Montenegro’s marginal vote in favour of splitting from it in 2006. Visitor numbers are low compared to neighbouring Croatia but it has some great cities to visit and Niš is one of them. It has always been an important strategic location and has a long and varied history.
It is perhaps best known as the birthplace of the Roman Emperor Constantine the Great and is full of old fortresses and churches. It is also the site of one of the few Nazi concentration camps that remain intact and that makes for a harrowing visit.
22. Užice & Around
Užice is a relatively small city nestled between hills on the River Đetinja. You won’t need more than a day to check out the town but there are several of Serbia’s best travel destinations nearby so it’s a good place to base yourself for a few days. Highlights include the Tara National Park, which is home to plenty of species including brown bears and is a good place to go hiking or rafting.
Around Užice there also are a few monasteries, caves and several mountains where you can ski. The Bosnian town of Višegrad is also very nearby and worth checking out not least for its iconic bridge across the Drina River.
As the biggest city on the Balkans backpacker trail, Belgrade will take a bit more time to explore than most places on this route which are easily explored on foot in a day. The enormous Kalemegdan – Belgrade Fortress is its main attraction but it’s a cosmopolitan city with a large number of museums and cultural sights.
The nightlife here is also very famous while it’s a good shopping destination with everything from major shopping malls to independent stores selling original products as well as a dirt cheap Chinese market with imported goods from China of questionable quality.
24. Novi Sad
Novi Sad is only 80 km from Belgrade and is the country’s Second City. Like the capital, it has an imposing fortress, which has never been taken by any enemy. It now holds the Novi Sad City Museum and the town also has many art galleries and a student vibe which contributes to its lively nightlife scene.
During July, it hosts EXIT Festival, the biggest music festival in the Balkans and one of the best festivals around the world, certainly in terms of its setting. If you’re ending your trip here, it’s probably easiest to head back to Belgrade to catch a flight as the city doesn’t have its own airport.
Getting from Novi Sad to Zagreb
This route is designed as a loop so you can start and end at any point. If you need to get from Novi Sad to Zagreb, our first destination, you have various options with a 5-6 hour train which can be taken from the nearby town of Sremska Mitrovica one possibility. You could though break up the trip by stopping over-night or just for an afternoon in the Croatian city of Slavonski Brod, which is roughly halfway between the two. From there you have fast train and bus connections to Zagreb.
Balkans Map & Itinerary Overview
You can start at any of the 24 points and just follow it around until you are back where you started. We’ve opted to begin in the Croatian capital Zagreb but Split, Dubrovnik, Tirana, Skopje or Belgrade could be other good options depending on where you’re coming from as they have international airports with decent connections.
Balkans Backpacking Route – How long to spend in each place?
|2||Plitvice NP||1-2 Days|
|4||Split & Islands||3-5 Days|
|8||Durmitor NP||2-3 Days|
|9||Biogradska Gora NP||2-3 Days|
|22||Užice & Around||3-4 Days|
|24||Novi Sad||2 Days|
How long you will want to spend in each destination will depend on your own priorities but also the time of year when you visit. Coastal destinations such as the Croatian islands, Budva and Sarandë won’t warrant stays as long as outlined above during the winter months. Likewise you may want to consider the weather forecast before planning any big trips in the national parks.
With very few exceptions, two days is easily enough in most towns and cities in the Balkans but you may want to pace yourself slightly slower given you may get tired of constantly jumping on buses and moving to new places.
Eastern Europe enthusiasts may also want to check out our Backpacking Route for the Baltic States and our Caucasus Itinerary featuring Georgia, Azerbaijan and Armenia.
Balkans Backpacking – Accommodation, Visas, Border Crossings
Budget Accommodation in the Balkans
There isn’t a massive backpacker vibe in this part of the world but most towns on the itinerary above have at least one or two hostels where you can meet other travellers and generally they are really good value. Croatia is noticeably more expensive than the other countries but does have more choice in terms of accommodation with many hostels in some of the cities.
Booking online in advance is a good idea during the busier summer months. At other times of year, they can be very empty so you don’t really need to. That said many of the hostels are small, so it’s not a bad idea to let them know you’re coming to ensure there’ll be someone there to check you in on arrival.
Visa Requirements for the Balkans
Of the countries on this route, only Croatia is in the European Union but it is not yet part of the Schengen Area (as of January 2021). Normally, visitors from the UK, EU, Canada, USA, Australia and a large number of other places can visit any of these countries visa-free for a period of up to 90 days – without using up any days in the Schengen zone.
Crossing Borders in the Balkans
Apart from Albania, this was all one country just 25 years ago so getting from one country to another is still pretty straight-forward. There are plentiful bus connections although there are border checks to contend with which slows things down a bit. Crossing from one country to another will mostly involve passport checks and stamps and will therefore certainly take longer than doing likewise in the “borderless” Schengen Area which accounts for much of the rest of Europe.
In most cases at the border, you won’t need to get off the bus at all. The driver may collect everyone’s passports and they will be checked by the border guards, although most likely not that thoroughly. During busy times there can be pretty big traffic queues at the borders so it can add some time to your journey although rarely more than 30 minutes to an hour.
IMPORTANT – Rules for going from Kosovo to Serbia
The one thing that every traveller in the Balkans should be aware of, regardless of where they are from involves Kosovo and more specifically travelling to Serbia from Kosovo. Since Serbia doesn’t officially recognise Kosovo as an independent state, there are a few complications at the borders between the two.
You CAN enter Kosovo via any of the four countries it borders (Montenegro, Albania, Macedonia or Serbia) and will have no issues. You CAN also leave Kosovo for Montenegro, Albania or Macedonia with no problems.
However if you want to travel directly from Kosovo to Serbia, this will only be possible if you initially entered Kosovo from Serbia. This can be done easily as Serbia doesn’t regard it as a national border and sees Kosovo as part of its territory so there are unofficial crossing points with no passport checks.
For example, if you travel from Albania to Kosovo and then try to enter Serbia you WILL NOT be allowed in. However if you are in Serbia, take a trip to Kosovo and then return to Serbia, it’s fine.
For the avoidance of doubt, the itinerary above is fine to follow as it doesn’t involve travelling between Serbia and Kosovo.
If you are Serbian, Kosovar, Bosnian, Macedonian, Montenegrin, Swiss or from the EU and have a national ID card, there can be a way around the rule by showing your ID card rather than passport at the border. However do check the latest situation at the time of your visit as depending on how things are with Serbia-Kosovo relations, the rules could change.
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This Balkans backpacking route was last updated in January 2021.